Last Thursday and Friday, Norris and I went to Chickamauga to take part in the annual Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park
Study Group tour of the battlefield and surrounding area to explore events of the fall of 1863. This group is led by author
David Powell and the park's chief historian,
James Ogden. These enthusiastic guides lead bus and walking tours each year in the spring, covering different aspects of the battle every year. The focus of the study this year was particularly interesting to me, a great-granddaughter of a soldier in Indiana's 82nd Volunteer Infantry Regiment.
On the first day of our tour, we rode the bus over an hour west of Chattanooga, with commentary along the way on the strategic importance of Chattanooga and the logistics of moving the Army of the Cumberland (Union) over these large distances. We were heading to the Tennessee River at Stevenson, Alabama.
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| Bridge at Stevenson Alabama (Alabama State Road 117) |
The highway crosses the Tennessee at the large bridge pictured. The town of Stevenson had a more extensive complex of railroad tracks than other potential crossings, which made this the most important location for the for the Army of the Cumberland's approach to Chattanooga over the river.
The boat launch seen below was the approximate location of the pontoon bridge at Stevenson, where we listened to a lengthy discussion of where the confederates were and what they believed their opponent was up to. Bragg and his Confederate Army of Tennessee were trying to watch 240 miles of river where the Army of the Cumberland might potentially cross. The river today is a little wider than it was at the time, but the Union troops and the few Confederate cavalry men on the other side were able to converse across the water.
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| Location of the Army of the Cumberland's main baggage crossing of the Tennessee River at Stevenson, Alabama. David Powell on the left, James Ogden in NPS uniform. |
We moved back along the Tennessee in the direction of Chattanooga to Bridgeport, Alabama.
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| Parallel bridges of the CRX railroad and the town of Bridgeport's pedestrian crossing of the Tennessee. |
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The pedestrian bridge (pictured on the right in the above photo) is built on the
pilings of the Civil War era bridge, which had been destroyed by the
retreating Confederate Army. This bridge had earlier been important in another major event that occurred in this area -
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| Trail of Tears plaque at Bridgeport, Alabama readable with a click on the photo for a larger view |
There are contemporary photographs of the remains of the original bridge.
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| Library of Congress Civil War collection |
We learned that Army of the Cumberland Commander William Starke Rosecrans, an engineer, had managed to acquire a higher ratio of wagons to men (69-70 wagons per 1000 soldiers) than any other army in the conflict, but he only had enough material to build 1.8 pontoon bridges across the Tennessee. We know from the 82nd Indiana's Regimental History that the men spent some time building a bridge here at Bridgeport. They would have been working on the foreground structure, which made up for the missing two-tenths of a bridge. The 82nd was here until the 31st of August.
Our tour guides had a lot of maps and photos to illustrate the story.
Our study was interrupted by the passing of a modern and loud freight train on the parallel bridge.
The wagons belonging to Brannon's Division (to which the 82nd belonged) probably crossed here at Bridgeport, but the soldiers of the 82nd went over at our next stop.
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| View from the bridge at Bridgeport, toward Stevenson, to the South |
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| View to the North from the bridge at Bridgeport |
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From Bridgeport we moved to the crossing at Battle Creek, back over the Tennessee State Line at modern day South Pittsburg. The blue arch pictured below had been visible from many points along our route. We crossed the river here to view the Division's crossing from the landing point.
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| Bridge over the Tennessee at Battle Creek, Tennessee Highway 156 |
The men crossed the river by polling in rafts that had been built of logs from nearby structures. Only a few wagons were taken over here.
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| Tennessee Highway 156 bridge, seen from the boat launch off River's Landing |
With the makeshift rafts, 400 men could cross the river in an hour. They were met with practically no resistance by the few Confederates on the other side.
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| Battle Creek joins the Tennessee just behind and to the left of Jim Ogden where old bridge pilings are visible |
Our guides brought a copy of a large map that was created for display at the Visitors' Center and unrolled it at this location so we could see how General Rosecrans used the terrain to disguise the movements of these tens of thousands of men and their equipment over the Cumberland to the Tennessee River on separate routes. (The 82nd was in George Thomas' XIV Corps.)
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| This photo is original size - it is readable if you click on my photo |
The site of the last of the four crossings pictured on the map is Shellmound which is now underwater, so we moved on to cross Sand Mountain. (At the time of the Civil War, there was only Raccoon mountain, but a pass created for the Interstate now separates Sand and Raccoon Mountains.) We stopped for lunch at Trenton, which is where the Army rested for a few days, and came into the valley. Shortly afterwards, the bus was paused to afford us a look at the gap that Thomas' Corps would cross to get into Lookout Valley.
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| Johnson's Crook seen from Newsome Gap Road, Rising Fawn, Georgia |
The task of getting up and over both Sand Mountain and Lookout Mountain was arduous. Normally teams of 6 mules were used to pull the wagons, but 12 were required to pull the heavy loads up these slopes, so each team had to make two trips. A two-mile trip took 8 hours.
The descent on the other side was even more difficult as the wagons' only braking system was provided by man power.
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| View from Lookout Mountain to the east |
We did not follow the XIV Corps' route with our bulky tour bus, but followed Georgia State Highway 136, and were able to see Lookout Mountain's unique sandstone cap up close. In the valley at the foot of Lookout Mountain we stopped along the road to talk about the action in McLemore's Cove that preceded the Battle of Chickamauga. After the crossing of the Tennessee river, the three Corps of the Army were separated, with Crittenden to the far north just south of Chattanooga, and McCook to the south. Thomas' corps in the center was called on to support McCook.

Luckily for Rosecrans, the Confederates did not make a coordinated attack and the major battle would not take place while his forces were so widely spread. One interesting question that came up here was how long did it take for messages to go from one commander to another along the line. There was a relay system, with mounted soldiers posted at 2-mile intervals. Each message had a walk, trot or gallop precedence. A message and the reply could make it between McCook and Thomas within 8 hours.
We moved on to a now-abandoned (but maintained) church and the cemetery where the Widow Glenn (whose house temporarily served as a Union Headquarters during the Battle of Chickamauga) is buried for our last stop where we learned about the final days before the battle broke out on September 19th, 1863.
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| Cemetery at Pond Spring, Georgia, intersection of Kensington Road and Cove Road |
The Union soldiers in the valley could see the dust clouds formed by the movement of Confederate troops on the other side of Pigeon Mountain.
We looked at the hills from this picturesque valley as we finished up the day of considering the logistics of moving so many men and all their equipment and supplies across the terrain.
We made one final drive-by in the town of Chickamauga, then known only as Crawfish Springs. Much of the movement of the Army was determined by water sources. Each man and beast was allotted a ration of water - but there had been a drought in the previous two years and many creeks and springs were dry and could not possibly support the needs of the Army. We also learned that the Union forces benefited from an extensive network of guides, scouts and spies, natives to the area who could be counted on for accurate information on the routes, water sources, and locations of Union-friendly farmers.
You may have noticed that all the participants who wandered into my photos were men. That was because I was the only woman on the bus. I do not know why this would be so. After reading the soldiers' letters and the regimental history, I found this day's tour to be invaluable because I did not understand why my Great Grandfather was building a bridge at one location, crossing the Tennessee River at another, or precisely where those places were. I'd seen the Library of Congress photo but the caption did not make sense to me. And there's nothing like actually trying to follow the route the troops took over the mountains to get an idea of what they endured as their part in the struggle to Preserve the Union.